Belgrade's Green Markets (Pijaca): Kalenić, Zeleni Venac and How to Shop Them

For all the new supermarkets, Belgrade still shops at the pijaca, the open-air green market. There are more than thirty across the city, and for many households the weekly market run is a fixed ritual: fresher produce than the shops, direct from small growers, at prices that are usually lower too. For a visitor, a morning at the market is one of the most honest windows into daily life here, and a good place to taste local cheese, honey and seasonal fruit. Two markets stand out.

Kalenić (Kalenićeva pijaca) in the Vračar district is the largest and best known market in the city, running since 1926. Hundreds of stalls spread across an open square near Njegoševa street, roughly grouped by what they sell: mountains of seasonal fruit and vegetables, then dairy stalls with young cheese and kajmak, then honey, eggs, dried fruit, pickles and homemade preserves. Around the edges you will often find flowers, secondhand and flea-market stalls, and old kafanas where market-goers stop for coffee or an early rakija. It is the market to visit if you only have time for one.

Zeleni Venac sits right in the centre, a few minutes from Terazije, and is the oldest green market still working in Belgrade, dating to the middle of the nineteenth century. It is smaller and more compact than Kalenić, packed under a distinctive canopy that is protected as a cultural monument, and it sits above one of the city's busiest transport hubs. Because of the location it is convenient rather than tranquil, but it is excellent for a quick basket of fruit, vegetables and local specialities in the middle of a sightseeing day.

The pleasure of the pijaca is that it is strictly seasonal. What to look for:

• Spring: strawberries, young lettuce, spring onions, wild garlic and the first cherries.
• Summer: raspberries, apricots, peaches, tomatoes and peppers at their peak.
• Late summer: the pepper and tomato glut for ajvar and winter preserves (zimnica), when whole families buy in bulk.
• Autumn: plums, grapes, quinces, walnuts and cabbages for sarma.
• All year: young cheese, kajmak, honey, eggs and homemade goods from the dairy and specialty stalls.

Go in the morning

The market is a morning affair. The best produce is gone by early afternoon, and the atmosphere is at its best soon after opening, so aim to arrive before eleven.

Bring cash and a bag

Bring small dinar notes, because most stalls do not take cards. Bring your own bag too, the local ceger, since packaging is minimal. Prices are almost always per kilogram and are usually displayed.

Let the seller serve you

At many stalls the vendor picks and weighs the produce, so point and ask rather than digging through the pile yourself. A greeting of dobar dan goes a long way, and at cheese and fruit stalls you can usually ask for a taste before buying.

Buy where the locals queue

The busiest stall with a line of regulars is busy for a reason. For eggs, cheese and honey, look for the small growers selling their own domaće (homemade) goods rather than resellers.

If you catch the market habit, Bajloni (Bajlonijeva pijaca) near the old bohemian quarter of Skadarlija, Cvetni trg near the centre and the New Belgrade block markets all have their own character but the same morning rhythm.